Berlin, Germany, Country 11, Stop 27

Sept 4

It's actually nice to be up not super early on a travel day. We were able to sleep in a bit before going to the gym and having breakfast. When we get to the airport, covid reality sinks back in. After a couple of weeks in Scandinavia, we had to put masks back on. I know pretty much the rest of the world is masked up but we had a brief taste of freedom in Denmark and Sweden.

We arrive in Berlin and check into the Marriott. Thank you, Andrea, for the discount. The hotel is in a great location and we are happy to be here for 4 nights. We walk to the Mall of Berlin for dinner and visit an Aldi (grocery store) for some basic breakfast essentials.

Look what we found at Aldi!!!! Trader Joe's! A long way from home.

***Jack-- When we got into the hotel the WiFi wasn't working in my sister's and my room, so being a teenager I naturally asked if we could switch rooms, and the hotel staff were extremely helpful and got us to another room in less than an hour.***

Sept 5

This morning we go on a bike tour that is originally scheduled for 3 1/2 hours but our guide is so enthustiastic and has so much information she has to share that it ends up being 4 1/2 hours long! Anna was born a Swede and now considers herself a Berliner and absolutely loves her adopted hometown. We see the main sights and learn A LOT about Berlin, the Cold War and Berlin Wall, and also WWII. We start in Prenzlauer Berg at an old brewery that is now this funky little area. We see parts of the Wall, Brandenburg Gate, the Tiergarten, and Museum Island.

This stretch of the wall artists use to express themselves and it's pretty accepted to paint over parts of the wall again and again. There is nearly always a mural in progress.

After the bike tour we are STARVING. We walk over to Mauer Park and have a very late lunch and stroll the Sunday markets.

***Dmitri--Our bike tour covers the Wall as well as Berlin more generally. I wasn’t super into the Wall piece since I’d known a lot, but it was pretty interesting. I was here 30 years ago just after the Wall fell and I climbed up on it and knocked a piece off, which I still have. I love seeing a symbol of oppression get literally knocked down, and here today I’m learning more of the back story that 20-year-old Dmitri wouldn’t appreciate quite as much. I didn’t know, for example, that when the Nazis were ascending to power, Berlin was a culturally diverse city full of artists, and rejected the move. The Nazis only won 15% of the local Berlin vote, so in addition to the obvious evil and genocide that came about, the change-over in power must have been awful for them.

We’re in a great location at the Marriott, and I take advantage of this to walk over to the Checkpoint Charlie Museum with Jack. It’s a pretty cool couple of floors of exhibits largely about escapees and escape attempts, but with good overall historical context.

But it’s not all about history. Berlin is very interesting in the present. It’s hipster, grungy, interesting city. Loads of cultural sites and events, street scenes, etc. One great example was the Mauerpark (Wall Park), a large grassy area next to the former Wall, and now a spot on Sundays for a giant outdoor market and what I’d describe as Venice Beach, German style. Drummers' circles, loads of blissed-out hippies, etc. I stick to the market and find some nifty art and unique pieces that I grab for our eventual next home—wherever that will be!

As its mayor once famously said, Berlin is sexy but poor. Today it’s still sexy, but not as poor.***

***Jack-- We actually came to Berlin to see the Berlin Wall, which I was very exited about. I was not disappointed, we learned all sorts of fun stories about daring escapes and stories between both sides. ***

***Mia- Later that night, I decided to take on Berlin's famous nightclub scene. From what I've read online, most of the places have very intimidating bouncers, and under no circumstances should you reveal at the door that you're American. You're supposed to dress in all black, look unexcited in line, and try and speak German if possible. I don't think I can pull off the "too cool to be here" vibe, let alone speak any German, but luckily the girl I went with is fluent in both German and English. We set out to find any open nightclub based off Google Maps, but couldn't find one. After an hour of combination taking the bus, walking, and calling an Uber, we finally found Club der Visionaere, a nightclub on the canal. It wasn't the typical indoor techno and strobe lights aesthetic that comes to mind when you think of a Berlin nightclub. To me it was like the Disney Pirates of the Caribbean ride meets Ibiza. It was loud and crowded and very late in the night, which I'm learning is not really my choice environment. I like to party and be social but it was a little intense and druggy for my liking. I ubered home early, and btw 3am is apparently considered early to the people I was hanging out with there. ***

Sept 6

Dmitri and Jack head walk over to Checkpoint Charlie while Mia and I work on the blog and vlog. After this, she and I walk around the Tiergarten and visit the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. We get some dogs and beers and then she heads off with Dmitri to see a movie. It's a pretty mellow day, which is definitely needed while traveling.

They are having a protest against global warming.

Sept 7

It's another glorious day, weather wise. We walk a few minutes from our hotel and pick up rental bikes using the nextbike app. While not as bike obsessed as Copenhagen and Stockholm are, Berlin nevertheless is a very bikable city. We ride to Ride to Markthalle Neun and have lunch.

When we go to sit down at a table, a staffer of the market approaches to check our vaccine cards. Apparently people are able to shop at the market with a mask, but in order to eat there, you must be fully vaccinated. We are starting to see a trend, as similar cities around the globe are enacting similar policies. We jump back on the bikes and head to East Side Gallery, which is where artists have painted sections of the Berlin Wall. It's pretty impressive and we like the vibe.

We head to this fun little area with alleys and fun stores called Hackescher Markt.

Soon we ride back to the hotel. We stock up on snacks for the plane and pick up some post cards at the Mall of Berlin. Tomorrow we head to the Maldives.

Side note: while walking around, Jack spots a store called Fun Factory. Thinking it's a candy store or something that sells games or toys, he points it out. Turns out, it's a sex shop so we do not go in. Ah, Berlin.

Sept 8

We luckily have late check out at 2 pm today and our flight to the Maldives is around 7:30 pm. We have had the new Insta 360 mailed to us here and we are in pins and needles waiting to see if it arrives before we have to leave for the airport. Dmitri and I head for a work out at the gym and we all pack up and then camp out in the lobby for a couple of hours before it's time to head to the airpot. We spot a scale for the first time in nearly 3 months. We are both up about 5 pounds. :( Darn you, Sweden and your delicious fika!!!!

Well, it wouldn't be travel if there weren't some glitches. We have a long day/night ahead of us with a bit of tech drama. First, when the little Insta 360 was lost to the waters off Portugal, we thought, no problem. We had a new one shipped to Dmitri’s father in Northern CA and he got it from Amazon within a couple of days. Then he sent it on to Berlin, where we would be much, much later. In the interim, we visited Copenhagen, Gothenburg, and Stockholm. Then arrived in Berlin. Still no package. We checked and checked and checked again. Literally we were waiting in the hotel lobby before leaving for the airport. Just as we were about to leave, a Marriott employee said they tried to deliver it but could not because we needed to pay some kind of tax on it. Booo. But good news, it’s right across the street at the DHL place and all we need to do is pay the tax on it. Yay. But then Dmitri and Mia go across and no dice. They come back, find the guy who talked to the delivery guy who goes BACK over and we find out that it is not in their possession. Since we are on our way out of town, it will have to go BACK to the sender. Sigh. What a hassle. But ok. All good. We are safe, we are healthy, we are headed to the Maldives and at least we have the Go Pro.

***Dmitri: It turns out the tax is a recent Trump-driven change. Thanks, asshole.***

Since we are a little later than we would have liked getting to the airport in Berlin due to the mail fiasco, we zip through security and head right for our gate and pretty much right on to the plane. The flight to Istanbul is under 3 hours in duration. We are pleasantly surprised at how gorgeous the Istanbul airport is. And it’s about 11 pm or so and everything is open and lively. We park ourselves in the priority lounge and it’s easily the nicest lounge we have ever been in. There is a bar, but also an area that is an alcohol free zone. There are prayer rooms. There are showers. There is quite a spread of food. And a children’s play area, that broadcasts to the area where the adults lounge.

***Jack-- I almost wish our layover was longer to be able to enjoy the Istanbul airport, there was just so much to see and do in there!***

We chill a bit then head on over to our gate and board our flight from Istanbul to Male. We have booked two rows of seats A and C and are pleased that the middle seats are open in both rows. The flight is about 7 ½ hours and we get so-so sleep. We arrive noonish and are a bit sleepy from the overnight flight and not great sleep, but need to power through so we don’t get too far off schedule.

***Dmitri: We fly overnight to Male from Berlin, and the Berlin airport is new and still untouched after little use during the pandemic. It’s beautiful and relaxing, but we’re rushing to our flight thanks to a mishap with mail in Berlin so we don’t fully appreciate it. Three hours later we are transiting in Istanbul, where we’re parked for about three hours very late at night. My expectations for the airport are minimal because late nights are pretty quiet in such places and the shops close down. But wow, it’s time to call out and give props to the wonder that is IST. It’s like a mini Turkish Las Vegas! It’s huge and filled with lights and shops and a giant mall-like atmosphere. We have a pass to most lounges via our credit card and the IGA lounge here is the biggest airport lounge I’ve ever seen. Even the food is good (it’s usually not). I venture out and grab a cheap air pillow for the overnight flight and grab a great fresh juice. I’m sure Changi at Singapore beats it out, but since I can’t currently get to Singapore, Istanbul gets the current award for most fun airport.***